DEKE ERH'S SHANGHAI - A Bird's Eye View 2010

 

大型黑白画册《尔冬强鸟瞰上海》收录大型黑白照片150余张,全部是尔冬强乘坐直升机航拍上海的最新力作。画册开本为八大开,160页,售价人民币580元。

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20年前上海一位女作家在一篇文章中把我形容为树枝上的一只鸟,的确,我常常幻想能像鸟儿一样自由地翱翔在天空,飞往任何一个我想去的地方。确实,我做到了,我去过世界上许许多多美丽的地方。我像候鸟一样追逐阳光、海水,我常常逗留在人类文明的圣地和历史的废墟上;我又是一只眷恋家园的鸟,在过去30年里,我把自己大部份的时光用在了对上海历史老房子的系统梳理和视觉文献式的拍摄工作中,我沉迷于这座城市流逝的风情片段和纷繁如烟的往事里。
记得上世纪80年代航拍上海时,中心城区大部份是黑鸦鸦的本地房子和红瓦铺就的里弄石库门,有一些洋房、公寓和公共建筑大楼醒目地点缀其间;那时的浦东,河道纵横,绿色的菜田和黄灿灿的油菜花色彩相间,一派田园风光。
90年代航拍时,大规模的城市改造已经开始,城市仿佛苏醒,增添了许多亮色,也出现了许多拆迁工地,浦东已经矗立起标志性的建筑——东方明珠,但是在它的周边还是大片空旷的土地。
2010年随着世博会的临近,我又有了许多航拍上海的机会。当我乘坐直升机掠过崇明东滩的湿地,眼前是如枝叉般自由伸展的河流和疯长的芦草。遥想150年前,上海大都会正是在这样一片飘着泥土芳香的滩涂上建立起来的。
当我飞抵中心城区的上空,扑面而来的满目高楼和多姿多彩的世博场馆,让我这个土生土长的上海人还是产生了视觉上的强烈震撼,我想只有“景观爆炸”这个词能来形容我的感觉。
很快,我就迷失在一片钢铁、混凝土和玻璃砌就的都市丛林中,面对令人惊叹的物理变迁,我已经无法拼贴出有关这座城市的视觉记忆。
确实,当我们这一代人走过文革时期的精神废墟,面对历史场景的一片狼藉,我们还没有时间来得及平复一下心情收拾眼前的一切,新的巨变就已经发生,我感觉到自己生活在矛盾之中。有时我觉得自己是一个幸运的摄影师,生活在这样一个时代和这样一座城市,仅用了30年的时间就完成了对上海城市变迁的记录。有时,我又觉得自己是一个不幸的摄影师,因为在我的周遭终日是工地的轰鸣和都市的喧嚣,在过去的20年里,我目睹了太多老房子消失在人们的视野里,一同被湮灭的还有老上海人传统的生活。
其实,在上海的中心城区并没有可供建筑高楼的空地,在上个世纪二、三十年代,上海已经人满为患,建筑也已饱和,现在平地拔起的高楼都是以拆掉老房子为代价而建造起来的。那些历经沧桑得以幸存下来的石库门,现在被视为炙手可热的商业地产,某些里弄经过改造被标上12万元一平米出售,听起来似乎有些昂贵,但是要知道这些硕果仅存的石库门已经承载着几代上海人对于这座城市的集体记忆。
不久前,香港的一家媒体对我作了一次专访,标题是:“尔冬强,为失了忆的上海作证”。这个标题概括了我过去30年的工作,毕竟我已为这座城市拍摄了十多本广为流传的画册,我自认是一个熟知上海的人,但是,今天当我再次盘旋在上海的天空,我发现这座曾经非常熟悉的城市已变得日益陌生和疏离。
我,其实只是一只迷失了家园的鸟。

 

尔冬强
2010年4月12日于
汉源书屋

Twenty years ago, in one of her articles a woman writer described me as a bird on a branch. It is true --- I often dream of being a bird flying in the air, flying to any place I want to visit.? In fact, I have done it; I have been to many beautiful places in the world, like a migrating bird chasing the sun and sea, wandering around the sacred places of the civilization of humanity or the debris of history. I am also a bird sentimentally attached to my home; in the past thirty years I have spent most of my time systematically filming Shanghai's historic houses with the intention of making a visual documentary.?? I am bewildered by some lost customs and complicated stories of the past.
In the 1980s, when I filmed Shanghai from the air the greater part of the town center consisted of dark traditional houses andred-roofed shikumen (stone framed) houses in the longtang (lanes), along with some Western style houses, apartment buildings and a few tall buildings. Pudong, at that time, was criss-crossed by many rivers, with green fields and yellow rape seed flowers in blossom, a beautiful countryside view.
During the filming from the air in the 1990s, the new construction in the city had just started --- as if the city had begun to wake up --- becoming more colorful, while some old buildings were being pulled down. The Oriental Pearl TV Tower, a landmark of Pudong, had been erected, but the area around it had not yet been touched.
With the approach of the Expo in 2010, again I had the chance to film Shanghai from the air. When our helicopter flew over the wetlands of Chongming Island, the rivers and grasses reminded me of what the city center of Shanghai was like a hundred and fifty years ago. The metropolis was erected in this kind of place. When we flew to the town center we saw high rises and the beautiful and colorful buildings of different styles at the Expo. I, a man born and brought up in Shanghai, felt very surprised to see this picture. I think that only the phrase "an explosion of sights" can describe my feeling.
Quickly, I was lost in the forest of a city formed of steel, concrete and glass.? Facing the physical changes, I found it difficult to remember all I had seen.
It is true that our generation, which has been through the "Cultural Revolution" and the disorder in history, have not had time to recover ourselves, yet new changes have already begun; I feel I am living in contradiction.? Sometimes I feel that I am a lucky photographer, living in this period and this city, having recorded the changes in the city of Shanghai in just thirty years.? Sometimes I feel that I am an unlucky photographer, suffering all day long the ear-splitting noise from the worksites and the hubbub of the city. In the past twenty years I have seen with my own eyes too many old houses disappearing, together with some of the traditional ways of life of Shanghai people.
Actually, in the town center of Shanghai there was no spare land. In the 1920s and 1930s Shanghai was already full of people and buildings. The present high rises were built on the sites of old houses. The remaining shikumen houses are now being treated as precious real estate, some of those houses costing RMB120,000 per square meter after having been renovated. They seem to be expensive. However, those houses bear the duty of retaining the collective memory of the city of several generations of Shanghai people.
Not long ago, I was interviewed by a representative of the Hong Kong media. The topic was "Deke Erh witnesses the lost memory of Shanghai." This topic has been one of the themes of my work in the past thirty years. At the very least, I have published more than ten picture books which have proved to be popular. I think I am a person that knows Shanghai well. However, when I was able to fly over Shanghai again I discovered that the city I used to know well was strange to me.
Actually, I am only a strange bird (or a bird lost on its way home).

 

April 12, 2010
Old China Hand Press

     
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