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By
Deke Erh
I
was brought in the old French Concession in Shanghai. My
grandfather served his entire life in United States Navy's
Pacific Fleet. My father worked for the American firm Texaco.
But before his death my father never told me his story nor that
of my grandfather.
When
the Cultural Revolution began in 1966 I was only seven years
old. I had only enjoyed one month of school life when it closed.
In answer to Chairman Mao's call, my older brothers and sisters
went to the countryside to work, while I could play in the
street all day long. At that time all the rich were driven from
their homes and had their properties confiscated. But we
children could not understand these things. Our greatest
pleasure was to play hide-and-seek or war games in these big
deserted dwellings. My interest in architecture probably
germinated in old houses.
In
the late 1980's Deng Xiao Ping called on China's citizens to
work hard and for Shanghai to mark great progress. It was then
that the cosmic construction and rebuilding of the city began.
My heart became deeply anxious when I saw my familiar streets
change and its buildings vanish forever from my sight. I took
out my camera to make a record of these disappearing treasures.
And then in 1990 I began to work with Tess, and in 1991 we
published our first book, A last look, to show the Western
architecture of the old Shanghai -- truly a last look.
Since
that ten years, after shooting numerous photographs on the
theme, my feeling were complicated. I was always looking back to
my youth and its turbulent era.
At
that time food was scarce and I still remember the tasteless
mushroom soup drunk from Western-style dishes, cheese that could
be found only in one food store, located at the intersection of
Huai Hai and Chang Shu Roads; it is now the elegant Maison Mode/
To buy French bread called for long queuing at the Jing An
Bankery.
I
also remember the autumn nights, the streets lined with plane
trees and totally dark. But the music of Mozart could be heard
flowing from someone's fingers into the cold wet avenue --
through a pitch-black window.
All
these things happened in the old French Concession.
Almost
every big old house had its own beautiful but sad story. I have
always been obsessed and tortured by these sad, true tales.
Maybe some day I will write a series of books, Monsters and
Ghosts. This was the name given to capitalists, landlords,
counter-revolutionaries, and Rightists, the people who lives in
those old houses during the Revolution.
As
a cultured man and a photographer maybe I am lucky, as I have
witnessed the profound changes of an age. Today, as the
Shanghainese are building a new Shanghai with zeal and fantastic
speed, they are also expressing their sentimental attachment to
the past one hundred years.
In
These frenetic years, commerce has begun to encroach into once
quite personal places. Many old houses are now used for
high-level hotels, bars and restaurants. Four years ago I too
inaugurated a book shop and coffer bar combined, called The Old
China Hand Reading Room, on a quiet street in the old French
Concession. The government authorities could not even imagine
such a thing because it was the first ever in this city.
In
the cultural and art world it offers an atmosphere of
reminiscences. Various works about old Shanghai can be found
everywhere. I know a woman author who is the same age that I am.
She was born into a 100% revolutionary family and her work was
full of revolutionary rhetoric. But she has gradually changed
into a capitalist lady in her popular works. The revolutionary
fervor is totally gone. To me it is amazing that she can cast
away so easily a cause in which she believed so strongly and for
so many years
Since
finishing this book I have another two books in the works: The
Old Town in Shanghai and Shanghai in the New Century are almost
completed. I plan to publish these by the end of 2001. Unlike
the old French Concession with its colonial atmosphere,
Shanghai's Old Town is still characterized by its traditional
Chinese life style, maintained through its 700-year-old history.
One can still find the imprint of a feudalistic society in this
once-walled city, which has been spawn to a bottle of old wine.
In
contrast, in Pudong and other new development areas, a modern
Shanghai has already emerged. Thus, in the same time frame, in
the same city, and from the same architectural perspective,
three totally different photographic albums have emerged. This
astonishes even me. Maybe this is the reason I am so gripped by
Shanghai.
I
love Shanghai.
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